zondag 7 juli 2013

day 8 - Eucla to Cocklebiddy


From: Eucla (WA)
To: Coclebiddy Road House (WA)
Via: Eyre Bird Observatory Outlook
Distance: 355km
High: Wedgetail Eagles! Such beautiful, strong and fierce birds. An amazing sight.
Low: A dump of iron drums and other things in the middle of beautiful bush. There is wuite a lot of rubbish along the highway……
Quote of the day: From a man standing outside the roadhouse and watching us walk back to our motel room “Hey, where are you guys from? Ah, the Netherlands. Don’t they have televisions there……” I let you guess what he meant ;-)
Animals: Wedge Tail Eagles (32), Dead kangaroos (17), Kangaroos (26), Other birds of prey (3), Crows (15), Other birds (many), Emus (3), Caterpillars (many)
Colours: Grey/green of the bushes and trees, red/brown stones and earth, brown eagles, red flowers, blue sky, white clouds, black and reddish tarmac, pink sky with sunset, red roof of the road house…..
Cars: average 39/hour. In Nuyts nature reserve 0
Weather: morning average 8C, clear, afternoon few clouds, 15C with a shower at the end of the afternoon


 Always good to know how far we still have to go.

 Leaving Eucla.

 Wedge Tail Eagle in the valley between Eucla and Madura


 Lookout from Madura pass

Madura pass 


 Madura pass

 Who lives here? Nuyt Nature Reserve

 Colours. Nuyt Nature Reserve

 Creating colour.

 The chair in front of our motel room, Coclebiddy.

 Playing at the motel, every-one feels at home immediately.
Nullarbor Plain flowers.

Coclebiddy road house



Coclebiddy


Cocklebiddy has restricted satellite access so we have no internet. Which means I have to write about our adventures  to the laptop instead of writing to you. Which is strange.
In Eucla we had the coldest night so far and we were all freezing underneath our very thin blankets. So when the morning arrived we were happy to start moving and warm up. I find out that my shopping has not been perfect. The children don’t like the crunchy muesli. They do like the crackers except Bink, who simply refuses breakfast.  There is no store within the next 712km. We could not bring any fruit or veggies across the border and milk we cannot keep cold. But it will have to do as there are two more nights before we arrive in the next town.

We fill up diesel in Eucla while we witness the delivery of stock to the motel. A huge truck delivers frying oil, mops, shower curtains, frozen food and a whole variety of other things. We wonder who makes the shopping list and who makes sure everything gets into the truck…..
Leaving Eucla is spectacular as we drive down into the old sea bedding, the Eucla pass. The next 180km are through the pass with the ocean somewhere on the left of us, and the ridge to the right.  This area is populated and possible ruled by wedge tail eagles. We see many of those beautiful big birds of prey, either hunting or chewing away at one of the many dead kangaroos along the highway. A sometimes sinister, but still impressive sight.

We drive up the ridge at the Madura pass where we get an opportunity to overlook the ancient sea-bedding through which we just drove for almost 2 hours. It is flat and grey green with some trees. It was only there that we realized that the trees have come back in the landscape and try to remember when they came back. Which was a few kilometres before Border Village.  A break is always nice and we go for a walk to check out the trees, the flowers, the many caterpillars we find. There are very few colours here apart from green and grey and the colour of earth and tarmac.

The next part of the trip is short and we arrive in Coclebiddy early enough to do more exploring of the area. The track we had in mind, to Twilight Cove was too risky and tool long to drive so we have to change plans. We decide to drive the Nuyts Nature Reserve towards the Eyre birds Observatory. We stop at the lookout point on the ridge of the plain, and only 10km from the ocean. We do not want to deflate our tires, so we don’t drive all the way down to the dunes and the centre. It is still a beautiful spot where we stop. We go for a “walk about” and then have a long play and picnic in the shade of the gum trees while the children use chalk to make paint and give the white limestones some colour. We crave for colour. The colours of the bush are there, but you have to look very closely to find it.
We wait until the sun starts setting before we go back. We want to see some wildlife and are rewarded with many kangaroos and a beautiful sunset.

As no-one wants two-minute noodles tonight we decide to go and have dinner in the road house restaurant. Which was great. We were laughing about the sign next to the kitchen that stated that trucker mates had to wait outside the kitchen when they wanted to greet the cook Ross. The sign read “If you stay out of our kitchen, we will stay out of you truck”. How funny is that!  As you can image, the atmosphere was very nice and warm, with many truckies and some interesting people outside next to a fire. We love Coclebiddy and its warmth and friendliness.

Coclebiddy has always been a road house since the early 1900s. We saw some old photo’s and we talk about how life must have been here at that time…… So far away from everything, in the middle of nowhere. A young family started this place. They must have been such adventurous and strong people. And even now we think that living here is maybe not always easy.